Rumpel de Pumpel Anaberg, Erzgebirge
Germany July 23, 2003 < <
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In the central square of Anaberg, there is a large bronze statue --
just as there are large bronze statues in the central squares of all
European towns. But unlike most, this one doesn't depict a king or a
bishop or a general, or even a queen. At the center of Anaberg stands
Barbara Uttman, a 16th-century lacemaker and businesswoman who
introduced a new type of lacemaking to the area and ushered in its
golden age of prosperity.
I sat on a bench near Barbara, and
the girls ran around chasing local kids while Jen checked the tourism
office for hotel recommendations. It was market day and the square was
packed with little trailers staffed by farmers selling produce, or
bakers selling rolls, or dairymen selling cheese. In lieu of lunch, I
wandered over to a small trailer selling marinated olives & peppers and
bought a small baggie of pesto olives. Back at my bench I popped one
into my mouth and savored the oil, the basil, the olive. The vendor
watched and then, shaking his head slightly, stepped down from the
trailer and walked over to me, with a paper towel in his hand and a
slight smile on his face. "Danke," I said. "Bitte," he replied.
The tourist office referred us to Zum Anaberg, where we were placed
in the Barbara Uttman suite -- large, immaculate, newly furnished. We
were standing in the living room later that evening, discussing whether
to go out, when the heavy brass room key slipped from my hands and fell
to the floor with a heavy clack. Jen, without pausing or interrupting
her sentence, burst out, "Oh! Pergo!"
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